Dog Grooming Hints

The Shetland Sheepdog is commonly known as the “Sheltie” and closely resembles the Collie. Originating from the Shetland Islands, the Sheltie is highly intelligent with a gentle nature. Their coat is long and flowing which protects them from the elements. The coat will repel rain, block the dog from the wind and insulate their body from cold weather. In order to keep this luxurious coat in beautiful condition, regular grooming will be required.

Because the Sheltie enjoys the great outdoors, their long coat tends to pick up matter that can become tangled in the fur. Daily brushings are usually needed for this breed. Tools that will be needed for a regular grooming session should be gathered before the grooming process which includes:

-Brush and/or Combs

-Shampoo

-Sponge

-Heavy Towel

-Dryer

-Scissors (only needed if trimming excess hair from the face, hocks or the bottom of the paws)

-Nail Trimmers

-Cotton Balls

A universal brush is normally the only brush a groomer will need but for the Sheltie, a slicker and pin brush and wide metal combs will be needed. These grooming tools can be used on tangled or matted coats. A mat comb can be utilized if the coat is badly matted. A spray-on conditioner can be used to help detangle any mats.

For extreme matting, the coat may need to be fully shaven before bathing. If grooming a Sheltie that has a neglected coat, a groomer will need clippers with several sized blades. A number 7F blade will work for the overall coat, a number 15 can be used for the pads and a number 10 works well on the stomach area. If you are having to fully shave the Sheltie due to neglect, be very cautious for other signs of neglect during clipping such as sores and wounds. After the coat is thoroughly tamed, the Sheltie is ready for a professional bath.

The ideal water temperature for bathing a dog is approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A spray hose connected to a faucet will make the bathing process much simpler. Start with the hindquarters and completely wet the Sheltie. The excess water should not be left in the tub and should flow down the drain. The Sheltie is actually getting a “shower” rather than a bath. In case the dog decides to do the “shake”, wearing a plastic apron will be very handy in keeping the groomer from being soaked during bathing.

After the Sheltie is soaked, place shampoo on the sponge and on the dog, from rear to front. Keep shampoo clear of the eyes even if the shampoo claims

The Silky Terrier is a breed that was produced by crossing Yorkshire Terriers and Australian Terriers. Developed in Australia in the 19th century, the Silky is sometimes referred to as the Sidney Terrier. The coat of the Silky is prone to tangles and matting which requires regular care and grooming. Daily care consists of combing the silky coat and trimming long hairs but regular bathing and a full groom will keep the coat of the Silky in brilliant form.

The bathing process of the Silky Terrier has the same basic principles as with most breeds. Have your tools and equipment at hand before starting the bathing process.

-Brush and/or comb

-Dog shampoo and conditioner

-Sponge

-Heavy Towel

-Pet Dryer

-Cotton Balls

-Nail Trimmers

-Scissors

A universal brush is normally the only brush a groomer will need. This brush can be used on tangled or matted coats or a slicker brush can be used for delicate coats. A dog comb will usually suffice for the coat of the Silky Terrier. A mat comb can be utilized if the coat is badly matted. For extreme matting, the coat may need to be trimmed or even fully shaven before bathing. After the coat is thoroughly tamed, the Silky is ready for a professional bath.

The ideal water temperature is approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A spray hose connected to a faucet will make this task much simpler. Start with the hindquarters and completely wet the Silky. The excess water should not be left in the tub and should flow down the drain. The Silky is actually getting a “shower” rather than a bath. In case the dog decides to do the “shake”, a plastic apron will be very handy in keeping the groomer from being soaked during this process.

After the Silky is soaked, place shampoo on the sponge and on the Silky, from rear to front. Keep shampoo clear of the eyes even if the shampoo claims to be tearless. Work the shampoo into the coat not forgetting any areas including the bottoms of the feet. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly, letting the water rinse until it runs clear from the coat. If the Silky was heavily soiled, the dog may need two washings. A cream rinse can be used to help tame the fineness of the Silky’s coat.

Squeeze excess water from the coat and use a heavy towel to remove as much water as possible. If you have a cage dryer, this can be used to help the coat dry off what the towel didn’t. A cage dryer will get the coat damp-dry and the blow-dryer will be utilized to fully dry the coat. Working

Lets talk about West Highland Terrier grooming and mistakes to avoid. A Westie is not difficult to groom but there are some mistakes that can be made.

West Highland White Terriers need to be brushed often. Daily is best but do not make the mistake of thinking that you can skip this brushing for days on end. Westies have coats that vary quite a bit. Your dog may have a hard, straight outer-coat and a thick, short, soft undercoat. He may have a soft top coat that is wavy or no undercoat at all. No matter what type of coat your Westie has you should plan on a daily or every other day brushing.

Begin brushing your Westie when he is a puppy. Sometimes people wait until the dog is older before they begin the brushing routine. This is a mistake because the sooner your Westie gets used to the brushing the sooner he will realize that this is part of a daily routine. You can train the puppy to stand still and he will actually look forward to this part of the grooming regimen.

Do not make the mistake of waiting too long between trims. A Westies

coat must be trimmed on a regular basis to keep it in shape. Unless you are skilled and have experience at trimming Westies you should seek the help of a professional groomer. Make sure you find a dog groomer who knows how to properly trim a Westie.

Some groomers wash each dog after grooming but this really is not necessary for West Highland Terriers. These dogs are quite clean after the outer-coat has been removed and do not need to be bathed.

There is a correct way to trim a Westie and this is why it is important to find a dog groomer who is knowledgeable and experienced with Westies. Each part of the dogs body needs special attention. The body is trimmed in a certain way as is the tail, the hindquarters, the forequarters, the feet and head.

You can keep your Westie looking fabulous when you avoid these grooming mistakes.

Dog grooming was all the rave during the 19th Century and the Poodle was the most popular breed of dog pampered and groomed. The first recorded grooming parlors were founded in France and the Poodle became the national dog of France under the First Republic. Due to its popularity, the breed soon became known as the French Poodle and not very long after, became the most popular breed in North America.

Pet grooming has faced many changes throughout the years as many more individuals “humanize” their four-legged companions. There are five fundamentals of dog grooming for any breed that make up the basic procedure. These are only the basics of grooming.

-Brushing/Combing

-Bathing

-Blow Drying

-Ear Cleaning

-Nail Trimming

To groom the Poodle, the groomer will need some basic tools before starting. A groomer should have all tools available before starting the grooming process.

-Brush

-Dog shampoo

-Sponge

-Heavy Towel

-Pet Dryer

-Cotton Balls

-Nail Trimmers

-Clippers (only needed if clipping of the hair will be done)

-Scissors

A universal brush is normally the only brush a groomer will need. This brush can be used on tangled or matted coats or a slicker brush can be used for delicate coats. A mat comb can be utilized if the coat is badly matted. For extreme matting, the coat may need to be fully shaven before bathing. After the coat is thoroughly tamed, the poodle is ready for a professional bath.

The ideal water temperature is approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A spray hose connected to a faucet will make this task much simpler. Start with the hindquarters and completely wet the Poodle. The excess water should not be left in the tub and should flow down the drain. The Poodle is actually getting a “shower” rather than a bath. In case the dog decides to do the “shake”, a plastic apron will be very handy in keeping the groomer from being soaked during this process.

After the Poodle is soaked, place shampoo on the sponge and on the Poodle, from rear to front. Keep shampoo clear of the eyes even if the shampoo claims to be tearless. Work the shampoo into the coat not forgetting any areas including the bottoms of the feet. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly, letting the water rinse until it runs clear from the coat. If the Poodle was heavily soiled, the dog may need two washings. The coat of the Poodle has a naturally harsh, dense texture. A cream rinse is not recommended for this type of coat.

Squeeze excess water