Dog Grooming Hints

The Silky Terrier is a breed that was produced by crossing Yorkshire Terriers and Australian Terriers. Developed in Australia in the 19th century, the Silky is sometimes referred to as the Sidney Terrier. The coat of the Silky is prone to tangles and matting which requires regular care and grooming. Daily care consists of combing the silky coat and trimming long hairs but regular bathing and a full groom will keep the coat of the Silky in brilliant form.

The bathing process of the Silky Terrier has the same basic principles as with most breeds. Have your tools and equipment at hand before starting the bathing process.

-Brush and/or comb

-Dog shampoo and conditioner

-Sponge

-Heavy Towel

-Pet Dryer

-Cotton Balls

-Nail Trimmers

-Scissors

A universal brush is normally the only brush a groomer will need. This brush can be used on tangled or matted coats or a slicker brush can be used for delicate coats. A dog comb will usually suffice for the coat of the Silky Terrier. A mat comb can be utilized if the coat is badly matted. For extreme matting, the coat may need to be trimmed or even fully shaven before bathing. After the coat is thoroughly tamed, the Silky is ready for a professional bath.

The ideal water temperature is approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A spray hose connected to a faucet will make this task much simpler. Start with the hindquarters and completely wet the Silky. The excess water should not be left in the tub and should flow down the drain. The Silky is actually getting a “shower” rather than a bath. In case the dog decides to do the “shake”, a plastic apron will be very handy in keeping the groomer from being soaked during this process.

After the Silky is soaked, place shampoo on the sponge and on the Silky, from rear to front. Keep shampoo clear of the eyes even if the shampoo claims to be tearless. Work the shampoo into the coat not forgetting any areas including the bottoms of the feet. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly, letting the water rinse until it runs clear from the coat. If the Silky was heavily soiled, the dog may need two washings. A cream rinse can be used to help tame the fineness of the Silky’s coat.

Squeeze excess water from the coat and use a heavy towel to remove as much water as possible. If you have a cage dryer, this can be used to help the coat dry off what the towel didn’t. A cage dryer will get the coat damp-dry and the blow-dryer will be utilized to fully dry the coat. Working

Ear cleaning is one of the most overlooked aspects of dog grooming, therefore its no surprise that many dogs will develop ear infections over the course of their lives. Some breeds are particularly prone to this, such as the cocker spaniel or any of the breeds that have long hanging ears. One of the main reasons for this is that there is poor air flow under the ear flap, causing moisture and bacteria to cultivate. Conversely, dogs with small ears can be prone to swimmer’s ear, when water all to easily flows into the ear canal. It is very important to pay attention to the ears as part of the regular grooming process.

In order to clean the ears, have the following items on hand.

1. A sturdy table with a bathmat or other rubber matting placed on top.

2. Cotton balls- Q-tips or cotton swabs will NOT do.

3. Ear cleaning solution from a pet store or groomers.

4. A soft cloth such as a microfibre cloth

5. Some organic dog treats.

Steady the dog

Place your dog on a sturdy table with a bathmat on it that won’t slip. This is an important step as you do not want to groom your dog on the floor and risk strain and injury to your back. When a dog is groomed on the floor, it has all the power to move away from you and this can also cause injury to the dog, if it tries to move away while you are swabbing out the ear you could accidently slip and injure the eardrum so always put the dog on a table where he is less likely to struggle. If your dog is big and can’t be lifted, you can place his paws on the table and lift his back end up. He should move his legs forward as you hoist him up. Or you can enlist the help of a friend. If he is unable to be lifted then your only option may be the floor. Put his leash on and attach it to a fixed object. Put your dog up against a wall and pull up a chair to his other side. This should hold him steady so you can work on him.

Assess the ear condition

Gently open the ear flap and assess what you see. Smell the inside of the ear. Does it smell yeasty or sour? Is it oozing yellow green or brown matter? Is the ear inflamed? If so this could indicate an ear infection. If there is a black tar like substance, that can indicate ear mites. If you discover anything amiss, consult a vet before proceeding with the cleaning. If the ear looks dirty without an offensive smell then this is a healthy ear and is ready to be cleaned by you.

Hair in the Ear Canal

While cleaning your dog’s ears you may notice that he has a lot

An important aspect of dog ownership is regularly bathing your dog. This will help not only to keep your dog clean and odour free but will also help to keep the skin in healthy condition, free from irritation caused by natural toxin release, environmental pollutions and dog saliva which can cause hot spots.

As a former dog groomer, I’m going to guide you through how to have a pleasant experience with little mess and limited strain on your back.

THE PREPARATION

Preparing the Dog

There are two things to consider in preparation; the bath area and the dog. First let’s talk about the dog. The single most important thing you need to do before you even turn on the water is to make sure the dog’s coat is prepared to be wet. You MUST brush the dog first. This is particularly important for long-haired breeds. The coat must be tangle and knot free before it gets wet or the tangles will set and form huge mats that will be very difficult to brush out later. If you have a double-coated breed, its important to brush out that under coat or big clumps will come off in the bath causing drain blockages. Even with a short-haired breed, use a rubber curry comb to rid your dog of as much excess hair as possible.

Now that that is done, its time to protect your dog’s ears. Taking two cotton balls, gently insert them into the ears. This will keep out any water avoiding possible ear infections later on.

Preparing the Area

Now that your dog is ready, let’s choose our area and prepare it. To avoid strain on your back, where you bath the dog is important. If you have a smaller dog the best choice is a laundry sink. It’s elevated and deep so you will avoid spilling excess water on the floor, and it is bigger than a kitchen or bathroom sink.

If you have a large dog, consider taking it to a U-bath facility. These are usually found in a grooming salon where they have an extra elevated bathtub for clients who want to bathe their own dog. If you don’t have one of these in your area then the next best thing is your own bathtub.

Next most important thing is to get a hand held shower attachment, the kind that have a long hose with a shower nozzle on the end. You really aren’t going to give your dog a bath; you are going to give it a shower.

Let’s talk about the shampoo. You need to buy a good quality PET shampoo. A human or baby shampoo is PH balanced for a human- not a dog- and it will cause irritation and dry out the coat. If your dog has dry, oily or other

Cleaning your dog’s ears is not the most pleasant part of dog grooming. But, it is necessary to the overall health and well being of your dog. If you are lucky enough to have a cooperative dog this really isn’t so bad. If your dog isn’t cooperative, well you’ll have to figure out how to make him cooperate.

Treats are always a good way to distract your dog’s attention. When I brush my Golden retriever, I spread peanut butter on my hand. She will lick my hand long after the peanut butter is gone. But, while she is enjoying her snack, I can give her a thorough brushing.

Dogs like my Westie, prick-eared dogs, don’t need to have their ears cleaned as regularly as floppy-eared dogs. If Bugsy has been digging and sticking his head in the hole as he excavates, I wipe his ears off with a wet washcloth. I do his face, beard, and feet as well. After a bath is another time that I give some attention to his ears. I rub them with cotton balls moistened with mineral oil. His ears are much easier to take care of then his sister’s.

If you have a floppy-eared dog such as a Golden retriever, ear cleaning should be done more regularly. Emma isn’t a big fan of having her ears cleaned but she will sit still and let me clean them. I think it actually feels good to her and when they are clean they feel better.

After bathing your dog, you should moisten a cotton ball with mineral oil and gently clean only the outside of your dog’s ears. Never, let me repeat that, never ever put a cotton swab in your dog’s ear. The dog could shake or move and end up with a Q-tip stuck in their ear. It could damage your dog’s hearing.

A thorough cleaning is necessary only if your dog’s ears smell or they shake their head a lot. There are many products specifically for cleaning a dog’s ears. I don’t want to recommend one. The person who should do that is your vet. They know your dog and what ear issues he has.

When I see Emma shaking her head a lot, I know that it’s time for a good cleaning. As I said she’s very cooperative which makes it so much easier. I need both hands so the peanut butter trick isn’t possible. I use a product recommended by my vet, gauze pads, cotton balls, and a damp washcloth. The first thing I do is wipe the outside of her ears with the damp washcloth or cotton balls moistened with mineral oil. Then I put the cleaner just inside her ear and squeeze a small amount right in to her ear. I have to be quick because she doesn’t like this part. This is when I need two hands.

As I squeeze the cleaner with one hand I have the other one ready to clamp her ear shut. This is her favorite part. I massage her ear so the cleaner will do its work. I probably do it much longer than needed but she is in doggy heaven. I then hold the ear with one hand while I use a gauze pad to get in there and get the gunk out. It is nasty looking. I use two or three gauze pads depending on how many come out gunky. When one comes out gunk-less, I wash the outside of her ear, the skin on her ear flaps, and the fur around her ear. Then I tell her she is just the best girl ever and I love her sooooo much. And now she gets a treat.

I feel like a good mom when I realize that she isn’t shaking her head anymore. I have no idea how her ears get so nasty. She doesn’t go in to water at all. She spends most of her day inside or in the backyard. Maybe it’s a breed characteristic.

Not all dogs need to have their ears cleaned thoroughly. Most dogs do fine with a wipe after a bath or if they have been in water. If your dogs ear’s have an odor that may indicate an infection or ear mites. In this case, you need to seek medical attention first. Some ear wax is good to maintain the health of the tissues.

The ancestral lines of the Basset Hound originated in France but this hound’s elongated body, short legs, long ears and irresistible wrinkles make this breed loved by hound owners around the world. The Basset has a tough yet smooth coat, long ears and droopy eyes. All of these characteristics require special attention when grooming the Basset Hound.

The Basset Hound can be bathed as often as needed. The amount of baths your dog gets will depend upon his lifestyle. Like with any dog, frequent bathing can reduce the natural oils in the dog’s skin so bathing should be done only when needed. Before bathing, thoroughly give the Basset a good brushing to remove dead hair and any mats.

Wet the Basset avoiding the eyes and especially the ears. Using dog shampoo, wash the Basset from rear to head with either your hands, sponge or a wash mitt. If needed, place cotton balls in the ears to avoid water running into the ear canals. Clean in all of the many folds that are on the Basset’s body. Rinse thoroughly, again avoiding the eyes and ears. Dry the Bassett with a heavy towel and/or blow-dry if you prefer.

A slicker brush or grooming mitt works well for grooming the Basset’s coat. A thorough brushing should be done at least weekly and after each bathing. If the Basset does not need a bath, brushing and cleaning of the eyes, ears and trimming of the toenails need to be done a regular basis.

Dog breeds such as the Basset Hound that have long ears are unable to get circulation into the ears. These breeds of dogs with elongated ears are prone to ear infections and ear odors. A cotton ball or tissue that has been dampened with water works well but there are also ear cleaning products available on the market. Q-tips are not recommended and always avoid going into the ear canal during cleaning. A cotton ball or tissue can also be used to wipe around the eyes.

The Basset Hound will need its nails trimmed routinely. Long nails for the Basset can become uncomfortable when it walks and even painful. Nail trimming for the Basset should be done every two weeks at minimum. If attempting this process yourself, be aware that the toenail has a “quick” and can hurt the dog or even bleed if cut into. If your dog has light colored nails, the quick is visible through the nail and easier to trim. Cut the toenail within 2 millimeters of the quick. For dark colored nails, trim the nails in small cuts to minimize the chance of cutting into the quick. New equipment for dog nail trimming have become available including nail grinders which file down the nails slowly rather than cutting. These new items may work better for the novice groomer.

During a grooming session, brush the teeth to remove any build-up and schedule regular check-ups with a veterinarian to assure that all of the Basset’s needs are being covered. Even though the Basset Hound has a short coat that doesn’t tend to mat, regular grooming especially of the folds of the skin, ears and nails should become part of a weekly routine.